Today, I invite you to join me on a fascinating journey through time, as we take a walk along Calea Plevnei—one of Bucharest’s most storied streets. Grab my hand, and let’s step back in history together.

In its early days, this street wasn’t as we know it today. It was once called the *”Earth Bridge”* because it was simply a path made of dirt mixed with gravel, rubble, and ash—without the wooden beams typically used to reinforce roads. The street began at the meadows near the Dâmbovița River, stretching from the slums of Trumpets (behind the CEC Palace), crossing the Dâmbovița at the Ford of the Sacks, and passing by the impoverished districts of Izvorani and Gorgani, eventually leading out of the city.

At the time, the Dâmbovița River often flooded the slums of Gorgani and Izvor, so local authorities decided to build an earth dam to protect these areas. This dam is how the street got its name. For the young men living here around 1830, keeping the dam in good condition was a duty, and while it was a difficult task, it came with an unexpected benefit: they were exempt from military service.

Calea Plevnei, like many old streets, holds a rich tapestry of events. Let’s pause at some key moments in its history.

The Military Barracks of Saint George

In 1844, during the reign of Gheorghe Bibescu, a military barracks was built here for the cavalry. The first stone was laid with great ceremony, alongside a lead container holding a building plan and a commemorative coin minted for the occasion. Unfortunately, this structure was short-lived—it was destroyed by fire in 1861. But the site would not remain empty for long. A larger building would soon rise in its place, one with 475 rooms. This new barracks, named *Malmaison* in honor of French Emperor Napoleon III’s favorite castle, became a key feature of the street. However, the name didn’t quite stick with the locals, who affectionately transformed it into *Marmizon*. This place would go on to play an even larger role in history, later housing a prison where many notable figures, including Corneliu Coposu, Constantin Noica, Nicolae Steinhardt, and Paul Goma, were incarcerated during the Communist era. The site eventually became part of the Chemistry Institute.

The Manutanta Bakery and the Silent Informant

Not far from Marmizon, a military bakery called *Manutanța Centrala a Armatei* was built in 1891. Local lore tells of a man known as “The Mute from Manutanța”—a mysterious figure who seemed to know everything about politics and the world around him. His name became synonymous with gossip and secrets. People often joked, “Where did you hear that? From the Mute of Manutanta!”

The Church of Saint George: From Farmazon to Freemasonry

Nearby stood the Church of Saint George, which locals affectionately called the *Church of Farmazon*—a term that roughly translates to “wizard.” The name wasn’t about magic, but rather a nod to Procopie Canusis, a local landowner who was associated with the secret society of *Eteria*—a group that sought to liberate Greece from Ottoman rule, inspired by Freemasonic ideals. Canusis, a proud member of the society, wanted his tombstone to bear the words *”Franc-Macon”*. Over time, this became *”Farmazon”*, and the name stuck. Later, a street would take its name from this association—first called “Farmazon,” then “Francmason” during the communist period, and today it is known as Mircea Vulcanescu street.

The Military Hospital and the Brewery

As time passed, the area continued to develop. Between 1857 and 1858, a hospital for soldiers was established here, which later became the Military Central Hospital we know today, founded in 1885.

At the end of Calea Plevnei, in 1869, the *Luther Brewery* was built, producing beer that became popular in the grandest restaurants and even at the royal court. The brewery was an important part of life in this area and added to its vibrant character.

A Name Change: From Earth Bridge to Calea Plevnei

In 1878, in honor of Romania’s victory in the War of Independence, the street’s name was officially changed to *Calea Plevnei*, after the town of Plevna in Bulgaria, where a significant battle was fought. It was a place where the Turkish forces were defeated, marking a major turning point in the war.

And now, here we are, walking along a street that has witnessed centuries of change—from the Earth Bridge to the bustling avenue we see today.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this historical walk with me, tracing the steps of the past.