Today, I invite you on a journey through time along a street in Bucharest. So grab my hand, and let’s take a walk together.
Our path leads us to Calea Moșilor, which translates to “the way of old men.” Let’s explore how this street earned its name and what it was called before.
Originally, this street led from the royal court to an outdoor market located near a bridge. This market was held twice a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Additionally, there was a significant annual market at the end of May called the Old Men’s Market, which was tied to a holiday that commemorates the souls of the deceased. On this day, known as the Saturday of the Dead, people would offer new clay pots filled with food to appease the souls of their loved ones. This holiday is celebrated on the Saturday before Pentecost. At this market, items related to the commemoration of the dead were sold.
Some believe the name “Old Men” refers to the time the market was first established during the reign of Matei Basarab, who ruled from 1632 to 1654. This market was originally created to honor his soldiers who died in the Battle of Fundeni in 1632, where he defeated Radu Iliaș, a rival claimant to the throne supported by Moldovans. Historical documents confirm the existence of the market from the early 17th century. Over time, the market relocated from its original site to the center of Bucharest, eventually moving to the Batiștei area as the city expanded.
By 1786, during the rule of Nicolae Mavrocordat, the market found its home in what is now the Obor Market. This market became the most well-known in the region, with similar but smaller markets appearing in other parts of the country. It bustled with locals from Bucharest and its surroundings, where people not only shopped but also socialized, enjoyed traditional Călușari dances, and participated in various festivities. Vendors offered gingerbread, whistles, puppets, and even curiosities like bearded women and shooting galleries.
However, this market wasn’t just a place of celebration; it also served as a site for executions. Condemned individuals were transported in an ox cart, often with a notice of their verdict displayed, as they were taken to their execution. Typically, those facing execution included bandits, forgers, traitors, and outlaws. Along the way, bystanders would offer them wine to ease their fear, often accompanied by their mothers or wives. Many convicted individuals would be unaware of their fate until it was too late.
Punishments for lesser crimes also took place at this market. Merchants caught cheating customers would face public humiliation, tied half-naked with a soldier beating them while shouting, “Who will do like him will suffer like him.” Women accused of adultery were similarly punished, paraded around in long shirts while sitting backward on donkeys.
Executed individuals would remain on display for some time after their deaths, serving as a grim warning to others. This practice of public display ended during the reign of Grigore Ghica (1822-1828).
Calea Moșilor, like other city bridges, initially had wooden pathways, which were repaired in 1792. Nearly a century later, in 1875, these paths were paved with river stones. By the late 19th century, Calea Moșilor had become Bucharest’s second-largest commercial route, resembling an oriental bazaar, with small, one- or two-story houses, pubs, summer gardens, cafés, and various shops lining the street.
Eventually, trams were introduced, bringing people to the market. It became customary for students to ride on the roofs of trams, tossing rice, corn, beans, and sometimes flowers to those standing by the windows. This playful interaction became a tradition, especially when the students spotted attractive women. With the decline of the trams, this form of entertainment faded.
By the end of the 19th century, the authorities purchased the market land, converting part of it into an exhibition space for industrial and agricultural products. As Obor Hall and the surrounding park were built, the market size diminished. In the 1980s, sections of Calea Moșilor and Carol I Boulevard were demolished to make way for new buildings. The Bucur-Obor shopping center, constructed in 1976, still stands today.
Now, as we stroll along Calea Moșilor, we can enjoy its shops and the nearby Bucur-Obor market. I hope you’ve enjoyed this journey with me!
